We discovered Foula in 2012, and as Kevin the ferryman reminded us this year: We can’t stay away. The Rough Guide lists the island as one of the seven must visit places in Scotland you’ve probably never heard of. And the Romans allegedly referred to it as  Ultima Thule, or the end of the known world, when they spied it in the distance. We’ve visited most of Orkney and Shetland’s remote islands over the last years, but Foula has become our summer home.
Probably the most remote place in Britain
Foula, 2.5 x 3.5 miles (4 x 5.5 km) in size, lies 20 miles West of Walls on Mainland Shetland. It currently has 32 inhabitants, a primary school with one pupil, a post office, and an airstrip with a public toilet. There is no shop or mobile reception and the only B&B has recently closed. And it takes 2.5 hours to get to Foula on the New Advance, although it only takes 20 minutes by plane.
But Foula also has stunning 1,200 ft (370 meter) high cliffs, amazing bird life, many colourful sheep and roaming Shetland ponies, and plenty of restful and peaceful remoteness. This combination has made us return to Foula again and again. It provides a stimulating retreat to knit and spin, cook slow cooked meals, and come close to amazing wildlife.
‘an amazing sight of the wealth and glory of wildlife’
This is what David Attenborough recently said on Radio 1 when asked to recommend one of the best places in the WORLD to see a natural spectacle. Foula’s natural heritage is exceptionally rich and diverse and is designated as a Special Protection Area (SPA) for birds, a National Scenic Area and a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) for its plants, birds and geology.
Although bird populations have also suffered here, it is a joy to see the puffins flying in at the Noup or the Nortbank, stumble on breeding Red Throated Divers on the lochans, and to duck for the Arctic Skuas nesting along road. Foula is also hosts the world’s greatest Great Skua population. Bonxies —as they’re called in Shetland— viciously protect  their territory, and with 1500 pairs on the island they are never far away!
Foula – our summer home
We’re just back from our fourth summer on Foula. The first year we stayed at Ristie, the most northernly croft on the island. A stone-throw away from the Gaada stack, we were surrounded by the small colourful Foula sheep. The curious animals would peek through the windows when we were eating our meals. In a previous post I’ve written about Foula wool, and how we left the island with 2.2 kg of Foula yarn in a range of natural shades.
The last three years we’ve been staying in Burns, which is a bit more central making it easier to get around. We love its homely kitchen with Rayburn stove for slow cooked meals. It’s become our home away from home where we can all relax, and have time for new creative projects. The last two years I’ve brought my spinning wheel along, and this year we practised using the Simpleframe knitting machine. We miss Foula now we’re back in Edinburgh, and look forward to being back next year!
Further information
Various websites provide more elaborate descriptions of the island: Foula Heritage; Visit Shetland; The Rough Guide;Â Wikipedia.
If you are thinking of heading to Foula yourself and would like some practical advice feel free to get in touch!
